One last time - Feria de Mataderos

A certain phrase is starting to creep into our daily conversations, which goes something like “Before we leave we should … (fill in the blanks) … one last time.” And each time, a slightly panicky look appears in the husband’s eyes when he realizes that I am cramming yet another item into the list of places we should visit or the things we have to do before the year is over.

Last Sunday, our plans for the day met his full approval, though, and that was our last visit to the street market of Mataderos. Mataderos is a neighborhood on the outskirts of Buenos Aires and known for its numerous butchers and slaughterhouses, but also for the weekly street market and gaucho festival. It is not as touristy as the San Telmo Market – probably due to the fact that getting there is a bit more complicated – but if you are on the lookout for shopping and authentic local flair, this is the place to go.

The selection of mate cups, leather goods and other souvenirs is extensive, and I always had the impression that the stalls offer more variety than elsewhere. In addition, you can shop for souvenirs of the culinary kind in Mataderos and buy wine, homemade schnapps, jams, honey, cheese, sausages, meat, and other delicacies.

If you get hungry, numerous food stands give you the chance to stuff yourself silly with regional specialties like locro, empanadas, tamales, humitas, and of course with meat in all forms and sizes. And if you are still hungry after that you will for sure find a pancake baker who will top it off up with Dulce de Leche.

In case this is still not enough entertainment for the day, just wait for some folklore band or singer to take the stage. You can either watch and listen or get down on it and join the dancer that get together on the main square.

All in all the Feria de Mataderos is worth the drive. Oh, and one piece of good advice: Watch your belongings at all times! The pickpockets are pretty nimble, and it was there that the husband "lost his ID" (In dire straits) which he then had to apply for all over again. Well, perhaps he really lost it, but being careful doesn’t hurt.

During that last visit, we managed to stock up on gifts and souvenirs, had a few farewell empanadas salteñas and even witnessed a speech for one of the old-timers who had always attended the Feria and who had passed away recently. We had seen the gentleman before and almost felt like part of the family. When it was time to go we tried shake of that sad feeling of "Oh, we will probably never come here again", inhaled one last whiff of barbecue smoke and took another look at the colorful displays. Pretty, ey?