03 November 2012

In dire straits


With the anniversary always comes the time to renovate our visa and our local ID. Luckily, we don’t have to undertake this red tape nightmare alone but can count on Juli. Her official job title would be gestora which translates into “facilitator”. But for us she will always be our own private guardian angel who has made it her profession to organize all those bureaucratic tasks that are necessary to get foreigners into the country, allow them to stay and work, and basically make their lives a hell lot easier.

We usually meet her at one agency or the other where she has already fixed an appointment. She then whisks us from one counter to the next, telling us what to do and say, pushing papers at us that she has magically prepared, with a “please sign here and there”, and then finally leaving us free to go back to the office while she takes care of the rest.

We are extra good customers because the husband had his wallet stolen last year in August so we had to do almost everything all over again. And since the officials somehow misplaced the new ID, Juli even had to apply for the replacement twice. It almost took them 1 year to finalize the new ID and we received it this August - just in time to start the extension process for the 2012-2013 period. But that is perhaps another story.

Juli must have the patience of a saint to have picked this profession, and she is usually very calm and collected. But when we me met her the other day she seemed slightly frazzled. She explained that she was a bit stressed out because she is handling all the paper work for a truckload of Chinese who flock into the country to work for the Standard Bank at the moment – even better customers than we are, mind you, since they come over with the whole family, including grandmothers and in-laws. But when we started chatting about the momentary situation in Argentina while waiting for our turn I got the sneaking suspicion that the political and economical direction this country is taking right now could be the true reason for her state of mind.

The usually very discreet and cautious Juli almost started venting, and the expression esa abogada - "this lawyer" - was meant neither as a simple job title nor as a term of endearment. No, Juli would definitely not vote for Christina Fernandez de Kirchner should she really change the constitution (as rumour has it at the moment) so that she can run a third time for president. Our gestora is pretty fed up with what the government has been pulling off recently, and I thought I saw her tearing up when the subject of the Frigate Libertad came up that is being impounded in Ghana until the Argentineans pay their debts to their creditors.

But what really got to me was when Juli said that she intended to go to the next big protest – that she was a bit scared of police violence but that she would go nevertheless. You had to voice your opinion, right!? And I realized that although we are living in the same country at the moment we are really worlds apart. I am here for a certain time only. I am a guest with privileges, a big international company behind me, and I know that my time here in Argentina has an expiry date. I can laugh about things, shake my head in disbelief and get angry and upset and frustrated, but I will be going home or to some other place at a foreseeable time. I don’t have any stakes in this.

Juli on the other hand belongs here. Argentina is her home. And she has children she is worried about and whose future is very much affected by what is going on at the moment. What advice should she give them? To stick it out and wait until the next crisis has passed? To leave and build a home somewhere else? And how will Juli’s future look like?

There is no easy way out of this mess and if I had the solution how to get this country back on its feet for good I would be a rich woman. Hopefully, all the pessimists will be proven wrong and the big crash will never come. And I wish Juli and all the other wonderful people we have met so far that staying in their home country is the natural, right thing to do and that their voices will be heard and make a difference. But most importantly I hope that Argentina will be a place where speaking your mind is a given right and not something to be afraid of.

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